Beginning in 1996, Château de Vaux in the French Moselle has been rehabilitated by Norbert and Marie-Geneviève Molozay. Planted to the traditional Alsatian varietals, the wines of the region – having gained AOC status with the 2011 vintage – are virtually unseen beyond the borders of Lorraine. They are as beautiful as they are unique.
The pinot noir from the estate is beguiling with aromas of cinnamon and camp smoke. Delicate in color yet fulsome in the mouth, these are true gourmand wines.
The whites of the domaine, whether blended or single cépage, are revelatory. They possess a purity and voluptuousness that often borders on the Rubenesque. ‘Les Mages’, pure müller thurgau, is opulent, even decadent, in its richness. Reminiscent of the Gilded Age. The pinot gris, müller thurgau and auxerrois blend of ‘Septentrion’ combines pronounced minerality with a virtual cornucopia of fruit and spice. Tasted blind, one might be persuaded one was experiencing cru Burgundy and cru Alsatian at the same time.
Norbert regrettably had to decline his invitation to participate in the 2012 International Pinot Noir Celebration – when you are the vigneron of a small domaine it’s not easy to get away . . .
Conversion to biodynamics is complete.