Marcel Grillet is the patriarch of Domaine de la Bonne Tonne, located on the slopes of the Mont du Py in Morgon. In concert with his son Aurélien the vineyard holdings were recently reduced from 14 to 6 hectares so as to concentrate on the parcels best suited for their approach to viticulture: The land is worked by horse and plow and adheres to biodynamic priciples. Some of the relinquished land has been converted to vegetable crops and a second son operates an organic bakery on the property.
The domaine concentrates the majority of its efforts on two cuvées of cru Beaujolais Morgon. ‘Les Charmes’, which designates both a particular site in Morgon and the personality of the fruit grown thereon, is somewhat a coquette. She is a mademoiselle all fresh and lively, certain of her attractiveness, emboldened by her first perfume and ready for the ball. Her hair is done up, yet loosely, and she will have many eyes on her as she dances into the night. ‘Cote du Py’ – arguably the most estimable of all gamay – is her mother. Seasoned, somewhat saucy still, she possesses a granitic backbone and an irresistible candor. She wears her jewels openly though without pride; they are her birthright.
There is also very fresh, yet fulsome, chardonnay produced at Bonne Tonne.