Domaine de Veilloux is the family affair of the Quenioux of Fougères sur Bièvre in Cheverny. With 18 hectares – down from an original 28 – they are the largest producer with whom we work. The fields of the domaine are contiguous and are planted with pinot noir, gamay, malbec and cabernet franc for the reds and sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and menu pineau for whites. The menu pineau varietal is relatively obscure and, with three hectares, the Quenioux possess 30% of its total production in the appellation.
The wines of the domaine are varied. The house white is an 80/20 blend of sauvignon blanc and menu pineau and shows all the zest and acidity of sauvignon blanc tempered with a touch of honey. Conversely, Agapé, which is pure sauvignon, is done Jura-style, without added sulfur and is nutty and slightly mentholated.’Les Veilleurs’ is a 65/35 blend of menu pineau/sauvignon which is tropical, stony and flecked – again – with honey. Lovely wines all, yet all so different.
The red blends are all predominantly pinot and gamay with minimal amounts of malbec and cabernet franc thrown in. The house red and ‘Les Veilleurs’ are both very pretty. Silky and spicy, these wines are delicate while still having enough weight to pair with gamier fare. Beautiful accompaniment to duck breast. ‘Argilo’ is evocative of an untended rosebush intertwined with a wrought iron fence in some forgotten corner of a cemetery abutting an old stone church. On a bright but chill day in October.
The domaine is certified organic and institutes many biodynamic practices.