The Boisard brothers began Domaine du Mortier in the late nineties and now work a total of 13 hectares. Originally possessing vines in the oft overlooked St. Nicolas de Bourgeuil region exclusively, they have recently acquired an additional 3 hectares in neighboring Bourgeuil. Focusing almost entirely on cabernet franc – a little cabernet sauvignon is also cultivated – the domaine is producing a small array of wines that can be by turns understated and effusively pronounced.
‘Sables’ is their entry level AOC wine. With grapes grown on sandy soils, this wine is very soft in the mouth. Just a hint of decaying leaves amidst the peppery earthiness on the nose. ‘Un second souffle’ – a second wind – is much more full-figured, rustic and tannic. The child of 70-year-old vines, this is exceptional Loire valley cabernet franc that possesses an intricate depth rarely found outside Chinon. The ‘Dionysos’ cuvée is arguably my locked-in-the-dungeon wine. It is fully realized on all levels. Ripe plums and blackberries, clove and fig. The type of wine that is developing constantly in the glass, evoking a broad tableau of emotional and sensual reflections. To be experienced thoughtfully.