Vincent Gaudry’s 8-hectare domaine is located in the village of Sury-en-Vaux just outside of Sancerre proper and has been uniquely biodynamic since 2002. Vincent approaches his métier much as a devoted schoolmaster does his individual pupils: understand the essence of the needs of each, and thereafter simply cultivate an atmosphere of nurturing calm. By doing so, Nature justly rewards patience.
Monsieur Gaudry cares for vines planted on three distinct soil types: clay limestone, silex and pebbly limestone. For his signature cuvée, ‘Le Tournebride’, the juice of the fruit from these three plots is cold fermented, on the lees, in stainless steel tanks for up to 10 months. This wine is bottled unfiltered, as are all the wines of the domaine. It is rich in mineral content, gives effusively of honeycomb and resin on the bouquet and always possesses a precise acidity. The newly named ‘Constellation du Scorpion’ – formerly ‘L’Esprit du Rudolph’ – drinks like a Chablis Premier Cru. The distinct pungency of the sauvignon grape is noticeably demure here, and its stony austerity slightly enhanced.
His pinot noir is, similarly, more Burgundy than Loire. ‘Vincengétorix’, while delicate in structure, has the quality of velour. It is at one moment a slight breeze carrying scents of sap, new undergrowth and black currant, and as suddenly smoke of a distant fire. ‘Sang des Serfs’ – despite its nomenclature – is regal.